Hammocks and Noodle Soup

This is my first experience with the “sleeper bus.” These are double-decker buses with beds intended for sleeping on long rides, like the one I’m taking from Vientiane to Pakse, Laos. The dimensions seem to be designed for your average-sized Asian person, while most of the actual passengers are Westerners. I’m traveling alone and amContinue reading “Hammocks and Noodle Soup”

The Laotian Sun Sets on 2014

I can think of no better place to show up starving, famished even, than Luang Prabang, Laos. I have been traveling all day, winding up and down green mountains past beautiful scenery, and I’m really hungry. Nighttime in Luang Prabang is a smorgasbord. There are sandwiches on baguettes (the French-colonial vibe), soups, and down anContinue reading “The Laotian Sun Sets on 2014”

Ruined Temples and Smoking Drinking Spirits

I’m on top of an old temple, waiting around for the sunset with a bunch of German and French. About 20 minutes before, I am on top of a different temple, with a bunch of German and French. They are digging in early for the sunset views of Bagan. When the sun finally starts toContinue reading “Ruined Temples and Smoking Drinking Spirits”

Bustle and Dirt and Devout Buddhists by Way of a Bumpy Train Ride

My hotel in Mawlamyine arranges for my overnight bus to Yangon (Rangoon). It’s as easy as a phone call and a motorbike ride to the bus station: which is really just a dirt lot with some buses parked in front of a shop. While I wait I’m asked for my ticket several times and amContinue reading “Bustle and Dirt and Devout Buddhists by Way of a Bumpy Train Ride”

Friends on a Friendship Bridge Roadtripping To a Place Called Mawlamyine

The driver is pussyfooting over the bumps in the road, I’ve just found a way to sit so my foot doesn’t go numb, and there is a guy seated in the middle of the two of us contorted in some way that I’m not able to comprehend. I’m trying to cut the guy some slack,Continue reading “Friends on a Friendship Bridge Roadtripping To a Place Called Mawlamyine”

Lots of Sites, Little Excitement in Thailand

“Nothing to see here,” I’m told by the owner of Jenny’s restaurant in the same alley as my Bangkok hostel. I don’t have high expectations but to hear from a local that I should not spend much time in Bangkok is a bit of a kick. My hostel is near but not too near theContinue reading “Lots of Sites, Little Excitement in Thailand”