Author Archive

2020 Reading Log

  • Belladonna by Daša Drndić, trans. Celia Hawkesworth
  • A Heart So White by Javier Marias, trans. Margaret Jull Costa
  • Chess Story by Stefan Zweig, trans. Joel Rotenberg
  • Orientalism by Edward W. Said
  • The Big Money by John Dos Passos
  • The Noise of Time by Julian Barnes
  • Utopia by Thomas More, trans. Paul Turner
  • The Kiss and Other Stories by Anton Chekhov, trans. Ronald Wilks
  • Where the Sirens Live by Francesca Coppola
  • The Master and Margarita by Mikhail Bulgakov, trans. Michael Glenny
  • Extracting the Stone of Madness: Poems 1962-1972 by Alejandra Pizarnik, trans. Yvette Siegert
  • Ten Plays by Anton Chekhov
  • Passage to India by E.M. Forster
  • Spurious by Lars Iyer
  • The Complete Collected Poems by Maya Angelou
  • The Iliad by Homer, trans. Caroline Alexander
  • The Bluest Eye by Toni Morrison
  • The Doll’s Alphabet by Camilla Grudova
  • We Inherit What the Fires Left by William Evans
  • Welcome to Braggsville by T. Geronimo Johnson
  • Everything Inside by Edwidge Danticat
  • City by City: Dispatches from the American Metropolis ed. Keith Gessen and Stephen Squibb
  • You Too Can Have a Body Like Mine by Alexandra Kleeman
  • The Idiot  by Elif Batuman
  • My Year of Rest and Relaxation by Ottessa Moshfegh
  • Beside Myself by Sasha Marianna Salzmann
  • How To Be An Antiracist by Ibram X. Kendi
  • Death is Hard Work by Khaled Khalifa, trans. Leri Price
  • A Tree Grows in Brooklyn by Betty Smith
  • The Story of My Teeth by Valeria Luiselli, trans. Christina MacSweeney
  • Normal People by Sally Rooney
  • The Accusation: Forbidden Stories From Inside North Korea by Bandi, trans. Deborah Smith
  • Chelsea Girls by Eileen Myles

2019 Reading Log

  • The 42nd Parallel by John Dos Passos
  • The Sailor Who Fell From Grace From the Sea by Yukio Mishima
  • Confusion by Stefan Zweig
  • Cork Dork by Bianca Bosker
  • In a Lonely Place by Dorothy B. Hughes
  • Speedboat by Renata Adler
  • The Selected Works of Edward Said 1966-2006 ed. Moustafa Bayoumi & Andrew Rubin
  • At Swim-Two-Birds by Flann O’Brien
  • The Big Red Book of Modern Chinese Literature: Writings from the Mainland in the Long Twentieth Century ed. Yunte Huang
  • The Third Policeman by Flann O’Brien
  • Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How it Transformed Our World by Mark Pendergast
  • Letters to a Young Poet by Rainer Maria Rilke
  • The Hole by José Revueltas, trans. Amanda Hopkinson & Sophie Hughes
  • The Poor Mouth (An Béal Bocht) by Flann O’Brien, trans. Patrick C. Power
  • The Shipping News by Annie Proulx
  • Salt: A World History by Mark Kurlansky
  • Sudden Death by Alvaro Enrigue, trans. Nathasha Wimmer
  • The Dalkey Archive by Flann O’Brien
  • Collected Poems: 1948-1984 by Derek Walcott
  • The White Album by Joan Didion
  • Secondhand Time: The Last of the Soviets by Svetlana Alexievich, trans. Bela Shayevich
  • Asymmetry by Lisa Halliday
  • 1919 by John Dos Passos
  • Open Secrets by Alice Munro
  • The Dry Heart by Natalia Ginzburg
  • The Vagrants by Yiyun Li
  • Passing by Nella Larsen
  • Nightwood  by Djuna Barnes
  • Overpour by Jane Wong
  • Black No More by George S. Schuyler
  • The Origins of Totalitarianism by Hannah Arendt
  • The Magic Mountain by Thomas Mann, trans. John E. Woods
  • There There by Tommy Orange
  • The Varieties of Religious Experience by William James
  • False Bingo by Jac Jemc
  • Other Minds: The Octopus, the Sea, and the Deep Origins of Consciousness by Peter Godfrey-Smith
  • The Taiga Syndrome by Cristina Rivera Garza, trans. Suzanne Jill Levine & Aviva Kana
  • Paper: Paging Through History by Mark Kurlansky
  • Pierce on Signs: Writings on Semiotic by Charles Sanders Pierce, ed. James Hoopes

2018 Reading Log

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2017 Reading Log

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Searching for Havana: An Ice Cream Parlor, A Dive Bar, and Streets That Stink of Onions

It is a typically rainy night in Havana. Taka and I linger near the doorway, out of the rain, of Hotel Sevilla – one of those grand, colonial buildings that Cuba is known for – as Lori, a smartly-dressed young Cuban woman, asks the doormen to direct us to the dining room. Her friends will be performing opera songs for the dinner crowd this evening.

Cuba_Helado

We had thought that her asking would be the easiest way, her being a native speaker, a local, and much more respectable looking compared to my and Taka’s look of general haggardness. But the doormen are rude and dismissive towards her. It seems that they only reluctantly admit her to the hotel, the lobby decorated in a fashion fit for nobility; or, in this case, for foreign tourists. (more…)


So Long, Uncle Ho

hanoi lake

Hoan Kiem Lake in the center of Hanoi.

I know beforehand that there will be a healthy portion of propaganda and I had seen the cult of personality still being pursued by the government, but I feel like I’m missing something at the Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi, Vietnam.

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Backpacks in Southern Vietnam

cairong market

Cai Rong floating market at sunrise.

Traveling from Cambodia to Vietnam by bus is like going from Three Oaks, Michigan directly to Times Square without everything between. The minibus is packed with a mix of foreigners with their legs crammed against the seats in front of them and locals. We pick up and drop off several people along the way as the bus swims through a sea of motorbikes like a shark through a school of minnows, honking the whole way.

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Brutality and Peace in Cambodia

S21

A cell at Tuol Sleng Prison, now a museum, previously a school.

Some of their faces show contempt or rage, others fear or an obvious resignation, while other faces are sadly innocent – a few even have smiles. I look at all the photographs they have of former prisoners at the Toul Sleng S21 Prison in Phnom Penh. Every photograph shows a little bit of humanity: the blind emotions of the children that were taken there, the rage of mothers that have just had their child taken from them, the dread of the old men that know they are doomed. All the heinous acts of torture and murder that were committed at this prison under the Khmer Rouge regime are documented.

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You Are Not a Good Photographer

angkor wat

Inside Angkor Wat at dusk.

It’s pitch black outside but it’s easy to find my way. There’s only one way to go: the same way as the tour buses, vans, and tuk-tuks. It’s before sunrise and we’re headed to Angkor Wat. I arrive by bicycle to the biggest attraction at the Angkor ruins in Cambodia. I had read of people that had seen the sunrise from another ruin so I keep pedaling. After a hundred feet I can’t see my handlebars. I turn back and get a really expensive coffee from the cart out front.

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Pastis and River Dolphins

Kratie

Boats and buffaloes along the Mekong River.

I know they’re talking about me, but it doesn’t really matter as long as this is the place for the ferry across the river. I’ve got my mountain bike that I rented from Cambodia Rural Development Team (CRDT – a local non-profit) and after backtracking for a few minutes, I think I’ve found the town of Thom where I can take the ferry across the Mekong river and continue my trip. A group of people is standing around with motorbikes parked on the bank, so I figure this is probably the right place. After a while I become boring as a topic of conversation and people go back to chatting about something else unknown to me.

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Eastern Cambodian Oases

BanLung1

Dirt roads in Ratanakiri Province, Cambodia.

My skin is red, not from sun, but from dirt. I’m riding through clouds of dust as motorbikes and the occasional truck passes me by, while kids wave to me from the side of the road. I’m on a mountain bike rented from my guesthouse and I’ve been told there are waterfalls around here. With my skin caked in red dirt and the sun beating down I’m having a hard time imagining that there is any water at all in eastern Cambodia.

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Hammocks and Noodle Soup

This is my first experience with the “sleeper bus.” These are double-decker buses with beds intended for sleeping on long rides, like the one I’m taking from Vientiane to Pakse, Laos. The dimensions seem to be designed for your average-sized Asian person, while most of the actual passengers are Westerners. I’m traveling alone and am hoping not to have to share this tiny space with a stranger. The ticket agent must be having a good day, because I am in fact alone in this tiny space curled into a ball so my legs will fit, bumping around and thanking every higher power there is that I’m not spooning with a stranger.

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The Laotian Sun Sets on 2014

Luang Prabang1

I can think of no better place to show up starving, famished even, than Luang Prabang, Laos. I have been traveling all day, winding up and down green mountains past beautiful scenery, and I’m really hungry. Nighttime in Luang Prabang is a smorgasbord. There are sandwiches on baguettes (the French-colonial vibe), soups, and down an alley of barbeque and buffets one can find anything they desire (of Laotian/Asian cuisine) for less than US$2.

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Inle Lake and Shan State

inle

The quintessential Inle Lake photograph.

“YOU SEE BIRD” is printed (in English) on a sign next to Inle Lake where there is a bird sanctuary. I laugh to myself but I don’t think anyone else on the boat notices. The five of us have rented a long tail boat for the day, after negotiating with a man who approached us on the streets of Nuangshwe, Myanmar. Hailing from France (2), Australia, Austria, and the USA, we represent three continents as we are driven past fisherman in the middle of the lake, accompanied by tourist snapping photos. Of course, I take a photo, too.

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Noodle Soup and a Few Laughs

mandalay

These huts on the banks of the Ayeyarawady River seem a world apart from the steel and concrete buildings constantly under construction in Mandalay.

The pre-colonial capital is overflowing with motorbikes, dust, and construction. The old palace, with its huge moat, sits monumental in the middle of a bustling and mostly monochrome cityscape. Temples and Pagodas stand out from the drab landscape. I find something about Mandalay charming. It’s dirty (though not like Yangon), noisy, and most of the buildings are hideous, but I like it.

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Ruined Temples and Smoking Drinking Spirits

bagan

A monk getting his pose on with a view of Bagan.

I’m on top of an old temple, waiting around for the sunset with a bunch of German and French. About 20 minutes before, I am on top of a different temple, with a bunch of German and French. They are digging in early for the sunset views of Bagan. When the sun finally starts to descend below the hills, I hear the continuous clacking of camera shutters. I take out my camera and take a few shots, realizing that neither the camera nor its operator is capable of capturing a world-class shot of Bagan at sunset. I sit and enjoy instead, the sun’s rays reaching over and between the reddish ruins dotted across the plain.

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Bustle and Dirt and Devout Buddhists by Way of a Bumpy Train Ride

Bago

We waltzed right into this empty monastery full of golden Buddha statues.

My hotel in Mawlamyine arranges for my overnight bus to Yangon (Rangoon). It’s as easy as a phone call and a motorbike ride to the bus station: which is really just a dirt lot with some buses parked in front of a shop. While I wait I’m asked for my ticket several times and am eventually led to a seat in the front of a full bus. It is new, and a screen in the front is showing music videos. I situate myself with my neck pillow and blanket. Even though the bus is nice and the price seems fairly reasonable considering, I will eventually learn in Myanmar that foreigners get charged significantly more. Like hotels, the government requires companies catering to tourists to have a permit, and to charge them more than locals.

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Friends on a Friendship Bridge Roadtripping To a Place Called Mawlamyine

Mawlamyine2

A pagoda in the hills overlooking Mawlamyine and the Thanwlin River.

The driver is pussyfooting over the bumps in the road, I’ve just found a way to sit so my foot doesn’t go numb, and there is a guy seated in the middle of the two of us contorted in some way that I’m not able to comprehend. I’m trying to cut the guy some slack, crawling down this shitty road, the car packed full of things probably coming from the Thai border, and no lights except from cars. I’ve been traveling all day, and I’m ready to be at my hotel in Mawlamyine (colonial spelling: Moulmein).
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Lots of Sites, Little Excitement in Thailand

Bangkok1

I decide to skip a few tourist attractions in Bangkok.

“Nothing to see here,” I’m told by the owner of Jenny’s restaurant in the same alley as my Bangkok hostel. I don’t have high expectations but to hear from a local that I should not spend much time in Bangkok is a bit of a kick. My hostel is near but not too near the infamous Khao San Road. There you will find backpackers walking the streets with beers, men aggressively soliciting tailored suits, bars that serve pizza and margaritas, pad thai served from street carts, and just a large mess in general. It’s hard to believe that anyone would want to stay on this street, let alone spend any more than a few minutes on it.

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Contraband Whiskey, a Late Train, and Satellite Dishes

Thailand train1

A provincial train station along the way.

I am in the Thai border town of Pedang Besar, having crossed over from Pedang Besar, Malaysia. I’ve been directed down the road by a police officer to catch the bus to Hat Yai. As I’m walking past a large covered platform accommodating three large women, one of them asks, “Where you going?” I tell them and am told to sit down. This is the bus stop.

I am offered sliced papaya, which is delicious. They ask me if I speak Thai, and I respond in the negative. But that doesn’t stop them from speaking to me in Thai for the next ten minutes, giving stilted translations of what they’re saying along the way. I take out my phrasebook and pretend to study it.

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Delicious Food, Monks, and a Racist Bar Proprietor

Penang KekLokSi

Kek Lok Si Temple from the street leading up to it.

I’ve just eaten some very tasty vegetarian Chinese buffet (that I would return to more than once while in Georgetown), and I’m walking around aimlessly. A couple of trishaw (bike taxi) drivers are seated on the sidewalk playing checkers with beer bottle caps. On the building across the street is a large mural of a trishaw driver lounging in his carriage, waiting for his next costumer.

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Mud, Tea, and Selfies

CH hike

Almost to the top of Gunang (Mount) Brinchang. This is the best view I got. It’s not so bad.

The temperature in KL is already miserable by the time we leave at 8 in the morning. As we ascend through the lush hills, the outside temperature starts to resemble the air-conditioned tundra that is common in these types of buses. The mountains are covered in greenery and fog. When we step off the bus in Tanah Rata, it is refreshingly un-miserable.

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Highways, Monkeys, Beer Towers

KL JalanAlor

Jalan Alor, an entire street of food stalls. At times, it feels like Mulberry Street in New York City. Hosts wielding menus try to draw you into their restaurant, which looks identical to the three next to it.

Just as I’m finishing up my meal on Jalan Alor, a street lined with restaurants – tables and chairs set up in the street – I feel a few drops, and then I see umbrellas being set up around the tables. I finish my beer, pay, and start walking. Within five minutes, it’s pouring. It’s that kind of downpour that you knew would come, that you even hoped would come, when it’s still hot and humid when the sun goes down.

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Ships, Steam Irons, and Noodles

It is so remarkably easy to walk around and see everything that one wonders whether the Hindu founders, the Portuguese conquerors, the Dutch, and then the British built this town as a major fort and trading post adjacent to the Straights of Melaka, or as a future attraction for weekenders with cameras. Large signs alert you to where you are: “Little India,” “Jonker Walk.”

Melaka Windmill

An old watermill on the river. The river cruise leaves from a few hundred meters away.

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